The next day was the first of March, and when I awoke, rose and opened my
curtain, I saw the risen sun struggling through fog. Above my head, above the
house-tops, co-elevate almost with the clouds, I saw a solemn, orbed mass, dark-
blue and dim - THE DOME. While I looked, my inner self moved: my spirit shook
its always-fettered wings half loose; I had a sudden feeling as if I, who never
yet truly lived, were at last about to taste life: in that morning my soul grew
as fast as Jonah's gourd.
'I did well to come', I said, proceeding to dress with speed and
care. 'I like the spirit of this great London which I feel around me. Who but a
coward would pass his whole life in hamlets, and for ever abandon his faculties
to the eating rust of obscurity?'
Being dressed, I went down; not travel-worn and exhausted, but
tidy and refreshed. When the waiter came in with my breakfast, I managed to
accost him sedately, yet cheerfully; we had ten minutes discourse, in the course
of which we became usefully known to each other.
He was a grey-haired elderly man; and, it seemed, had lived in
his present place twenty years. Having ascertained this, I was sure he must
remember my two uncles, Charles and Wilmot, who, fifteen years ago, were
frequent visitors here. I mentioned their names; he recalled them perfectly and
with respect. Having intimated my connection, my position in his eyes was
henceforth clear, and on a right footing. He said I was like my uncle Charles: I
suppose he spoke truth, because Mrs. Barrett was accustomed to say the same
thing. A ready and obliging courtesy now replaced his former uncomfortably
doubtful manner: henceforth I need no longer be at a loss for a civil answer to
a sensible question.
The street on which my little sitting-room window looked was
narrow, perfectly quiet, and not dirty: the few passengers were just such as one
sees in
provincial towns: here was nothing formidable; I felt sure I might venture out
alone.
Having breakfasted, out I went. Elation and pleasure were in my
heart: to walk alone in London seemed of itself an adventure. Presently I found
myself in Paternoster Row - classic ground this. I entered a bookseller's shop,
kept by one Jones; I bought a little book - a piece of extravagance I could ill
afford; but I thought I would one day give or send it to Mrs. Barrett. Mr.
Jones, a dried-in man of business, stood behind his desk; he seemed one of the
greatest, and I one of the happiest, of beings.
Prodigious was the amount of life I lived that morning. Finding
myself before St. Paul's, I went in; I mounted to the dome: I saw thence London,
with its river, and its bridges, and its churches; I saw antique Westminster,
and the green Temple Gardens, with sun upon them, and a glad, blue sky, of early
spring above; and, between them and it, not too dense a cloud of haze.
Descending, I went wandering whither chance might lead, in a
still ecstasy of freedom and enjoyment; and I got - I know not how - I got into
the heart of city life. I saw and felt London at last: I got into the Strand; I
went up Cornhill; I mixed with the life passing along; I dared the perils of
crossings. To do this, and to do it utterly alone, gave me, perhaps an
irrational, but a real pleasure. Since those days I have seen the West-end, the
parks, the fine squares, but I love the city far better. The city seems so much
more in earnest: its business, its rush, its roar, are such serious things,
sights and sounds. The city is getting its living - the West-end but enjoying
its pleasure. At the West-end you may be amused, but in the city you are deeply
excited.
Faint, at last, and hungry (it was years since I had felt such
healthy hunger), I returned, about two o'clock, to my dark, old and quiet inn. I
dined on two dishes - a plain joint and vegetables; both seemed excellent: how
much better than the small, dainty messes Miss Marchmont's cook used to send up
to my kind, dead mistress and me, and to the discussion of which we could not
bring half an appetite between us! Delightfully tired, I lay down on three
chairs for an hour (the room did not boast a sofa.) I slept, then I woke and
thought for two hours.
My state of mind, and all accompanying circumstances, were just now such
as most to favour the adoption of a new, resolute and daring - perhaps desperate
- line of action. I had nothing to lose. Unutterable loathing of a desolate
existence past, forbade return. If I failed in what I now designed to undertake,
who, save myself would suffer? If I died far away from - home, I was going to
say, but I had no home - from England, then, who would weep?
I might suffer; I was inured to suffering: death itself had not, I
thought, those terrors for me which it has for the softly reared. I had, ere
this, looked on the thought of death with a quiet eye. Prepared then for any
consequences, I formed a project.
That same evening I obtained from my friend, the waiter, information
respecting the sailing of vessels for a certain continental port, Boue-Marine.
No time, I found, was to be lost: that very night I must take my berth. I might,
indeed, have waited till the morning before going on board, but would not run
the risk of being too late.
'Better take your berth at once, ma'am', counselled the waiter. I agreed
with him, and having discharged my bill, and acknowledged my friend's services
at a rate which I now know was princely, and which in his eyes must have seemed
absurd - and indeed, while pocketing the cash, he smiled a faint smile which
intimated his opinion of the donor's savoir-faire - he proceeded to call a
coach. To the driver he also recommended me, giving at the same time an
injunction about taking me, I think, to the wharf and not leaving me to the
watermen; which that functionary promised to observe, but failed in keeping his
promise. On the contrary, he offered me up as an oblation, served me as a
dripping roast, making me alight in the midst of a throng of watermen.
This was an uncomfortable crisis. It was a dark night. The coachman
instantly drove off as soon as he had got his fare; the watermen commenced a
struggle for me and my trunk. Their oaths I hear at this moment: they shook my
philosophy more than did the night, or the isolation, or the strangeness of the
scene. One laid hands on my trunk. I looked on and waited quietly; but when
another laid hands on me I spoke up, shook off his touch, stepped at once into a
boat, desired austerely that the trunk should be placed beside me - 'Just there'
- which was instantly done; for the owner of the boat I had chosen became now an
ally: I was rowed off.
Black was the river as a torrent of ink: lights glanced on it from the
piles of building round, ships rocked on its bosom. They rowed me up to several
vessels; I read by lantern-light their names painted in great, white letters on
a dark ground. The Ocean, the Phoenix, the Consort, the Dolphin, were passed in
turns; but the Vivid was my ship, and it seemed she lay further down.
Down the sable flood we glided; I thought of the Styx, and of Charon
rowing some solitary soul to the Land of Shades. Amidst the strange scene, with
a chilly wind blowing in my face, and midnight-clouds dropping rain above my
head; with two rude rowers for companions, whose insane oaths still tortured my
ear, I asked myself if I was wretched or terrified. I was neither. Often in my
life have I been far more so under comparatively safe circumstances. 'How is
this?' said I. 'Methinks I am animated and alert, instead of being depressed and
apprehensive?' I could not tell how it was.
The Vivid started out, white and glaring, from the black night at last.
'Here you are!' said the waterman, and instantly demanded six shillings.
'You ask too much', I said. He drew off from the vessel and swore he
would not embark me till I paid it. A young man, the steward as I found
afterwards, was looking over the ship's side; he grinned a smile in anticipation
of the coming contest; to disappoint him, I paid the money. Three times that
afternoon I had given crowns where I should have given shillings; but I consoled
myself with the reflection, 'It is the price of experience.'
'They've cheated you!' said the steward exultantly when I got on board. I
answered phlegmatically that 'I knew it', and went below.
A stout, handsome and showy woman was in the ladies' cabin. I asked to be
shown my berth; she looked hard at me, muttered something about it being unusual
for passengers to come on board at that hour, and seemed disposed to be less
than civil. What a face she had - so comely - so insolent and so selfish!
'Now that I am on board, I shall certainly stay here', was my answer. 'I
will trouble you to show me my berth.'
She complied, but sullenly. I took off my bonnet, arranged my things, and
lay down. Some difficulties had been passed through; a sort of victory was won:
my homeless, anchorless, unsupported mind had again leisure for a brief repose:
till the Vivid arrived in harbour, no further action would be required of me;
but then. . . . Oh! I could not look forward. Harassed, exhausted, I lay in a
half-trance.
The stewardess talked all night; not to me but to the young steward, her
son and her very picture. He passed in and out of the cabin continually: they
disputed, they quarrelled, they made it up again twenty times in the course of
the night. She professed to be writing a letter home - she said to her father;
she read passages of it aloud, heeding me no more than a stock - perhaps she
believed me asleep: several of these passages appeared to comprise family
secrets, and bore special reference to one 'Charlotte', a younger sister who,
from the bearing of the epistle, seemed to be on the brink of perpetrating a
romantic and imprudent match; loud was the protest of this elder lady against
the distasteful union. The dutiful son laughed his mother's correspondence to
scorn. She defended it, and raved at him. They were a strange pair. She might be
thirty-nine or forty, and was buxom and blooming as a girl of twenty. Hard,
loud, vain and vulgar, her mind and body alike seemed brazen and imperishable. I
should think, from her childhood, she must have lived in public stations; and in
her youth might very likely have been a bar-maid.
Towards morning her discourse ran on a new theme: 'the Watsons', a
certain expected family-party of passengers, known to her, it appeared, and by
her much esteemed on account of the handsome profit realised in their fees. She
said, 'it was as good as a little fortune to her whenever this family
crossed.'
At dawn all were astir, and by sunrise the passengers came on board.
Boisterous was the welcome given by the stewardess to the 'Watsons', and great
was the bustle made in their honour. They were four in number, two males and two
females. Besides them, there was but one other passenger - a young lady, whom a
gentlemanly, though languid-looking man escorted. The two groups offered a
marked contrast. The Watsons were doubtless rich people, for they had the
confidence of conscious wealth in their bearing; the women - youthful both of
them, and one perfectly handsome, as far as physical beauty went - were dressed
richly, gaily, and absurdly out of character for the circumstances. Their
bonnets - with bright flowers - their velvet cloaks and silk dresses seemed
better suited for park or promenade than for a damp packet deck. The men were of
low stature, plain, fat and vulgar; the oldest, plainest, greasiest, broadest, I
soon found was the husband - the bridegroom I suppose, for she was very young -
of the beautiful girl. Deep was my amazement at this discovery; and deeper still
when I perceived that, instead of being desperately wretched in such a union,
she was gay even to giddiness. 'Her laughter', I reflected, 'must be the mere
frenzy of despair.' And even while this thought was crossing my mind, as I stood
leaning quiet and solitary against the ship's side, she came tripping up to me,
an utter stranger, with a camp stool in her hand, and smiling a smile of which
the levity puzzled and startled me, though it showed a perfect set of perfect
teeth, she offered me the accommodation of this piece of furniture. I declined
it of course, with all the courtesy I could put into my manner; she danced off
heedless and lightsome. She must have been good-natured; but what had made her
marry that individual, who was at least as much like an oil-barrel as a man?
The other lady-passenger, with the gentleman companion, was quite a girl
- pretty and fair: her simple print dress, untrimmed straw bonnet and large
shawl, gracefully worn, formed a costume plain to quakerism: yet, for her,
becoming enough. Before the gentleman quitted her, I observed him throwing a
glance of scrutiny over all the passengers, as if to ascertain in what company
his charge would be left. With a most dissatisfied air did his eye turn from the
ladies with the gay flowers; he looked at me, and then he spoke to his daughter,
niece, or whatever she was: she also glanced in my direction, and slightly
curled her short, pretty lip. It might be myself or it might be my homely
mourning habit, that elicited this mark of contempt; more likely, both. A bell
rang; her father (I afterwards knew that it was her father) kissed her, and
returned to land. The packet sailed.
Foreigners say that it is only English girls who can thus be trusted to
travel alone, and deep is their wonder at the daring confidence of English
parents and guardians. As for the 'jeunes Miss', by some their intrepidity is
pronounced masculine and 'inconvenant', others regard them as the passive
victims of an educational and theological system which wantonly dispenses with
proper 'surveillance.' Whether this particular young lady was of the sort that
can the most safely be left unwatched, I do not know: or rather did not then
know; but it soon appeared that the dignity of solitude was not to her taste.
She paced the deck once or twice backwards and forwards; she looked with a
little sour air of disdain at the flaunting silks and velvets, and the bears
which thereon danced attendance, and eventually she approached me and spoke.
I explained that my fondness for a sea voyage had yet to undergo the test
of experience; I had never made one.
'Oh, how charming!' cried she. 'I quite envy you the novelty: first
impressions, you know, are so pleasant. Now I have made so many, I quite forget
the first: I am quite blasée about the sea and all that.'
'You hardly look sixteen. Do you like travelling alone?'
'Bah! I care nothing about it. I have crossed the Channel ten times,
alone; but then I take care never to be long alone; I always make friends.'
'You will scarcely make many friends this voyage, I think' (glancing at
the Watson group, who were now laughing and making a great deal of noise on
deck).
'Not of those odious men and women', said she: 'such people should be
steerage passengers. Are you going to school?'
'I am going to school. Oh, the number of foreign schools I have been at
in my life! And yet I am quite an ignoramus. I know nothing - nothing in the
world - I assure you; except that I play and dance beautifully - and French and
German of course I know, to speak; but I can't read or write them very well. Do
you know they wanted me to translate a page of an easy German book into English
the other day, and I couldn't do it. Papa was so mortified: he says it looks as
if M. de Bassompierre - my god-papa, who pays all my school-bills - had thrown
away all his money. And then, in matters of information - in history, geography,
arithmetic, and so on, I am quite a baby; and I write English so badly - such
spelling and grammar, they tell me. Into the bargain I have quite forgotten my
religion; they call me a Protestant, you know, but really I am not sure whether
I am one or not: I don't well know the difference between Romanism and
Protestantism. However, I don't the least care for that. I was a Lutheran once
at Bonn - dear Bonn! charming Bonn! - where there were so many handsome
students. Every nice girl in our school had an admirer; they knew our hours for
walking out, and almost always passed us on the promenade: "Schönes
Maädchen," we used to hear them say. I was excessively happy at Bonn!'
Now, Miss Ginevra Fanshawe (such was this young person's name) only
substituted this word 'chose' in temporary oblivion of the real name. It was a
habit she had: 'chose' came in at every turn in her conversation - the
convenient substitute for any missing word in any language she might chance at
the time to be speaking. French girls often do the like; from them she caught
the custom. 'Chose', however, I found in this instance, stood for Villette - the
great capital of the great kingdom of Labassecour.
'Oh no! horrid: but I go out every Sunday, and care nothing about the
maîtresses or the professeurs, or the élèves, and send lessons au
diable; (one daren't say that in English, you know, but it sounds quite right in
French), and thus I get on charmingly. . . . You are laughing at me again?'
(After a pause) 'Bah! how unpleasant! But I know what it is to be poor:
they are poor enough at home - papa and mamma, and all of them. Papa is called
Captain Fanshawe; he is an officer on half-pay, but well descended, and some of
our connections are great enough; but my uncle and god-papa De Bassompierre, who
lives in France, is the only one that helps us: he educates us girls. I have
five sisters and three brothers. By-and-by we are to marry - rather elderly
gentlemen, I suppose, with cash: papa and mamma manage that. My sister Augusta
is married now to a man much older looking than papa. Augusta is very beautiful
- not in my style - but dark; her husband, Mr. Davies, had the yellow fever in
India, and he is still the colour of a guinea; but then he is rich, and Augusta
has her carriage and establishment, and we all think she has done perfectly
well. Now, this is better than "earning a living," as you say. By the way, are
you clever?'
'Oh, immensely! as soon as ever we get in sight of the sea: I begin,
indeed, to feel it already. I shall go below; and won't I order about that fat
odious stewardess. Heureusement je sais faire aller mon monde.' Down she
went.
It was not long before the other passengers followed her: throughout the
afternoon I remained on deck alone. When I recall the tranquil, and even happy
mood in which I passed those hours, and remember, at the same time, the position
in which I was placed: its hazardous - some would have said its hopeless -
character; I feel that, as:
'Stone walls do not a prison make,
Nor iron bars - a cage',
so peril, loneliness, an uncertain future, are not oppressive evils, so long as
the frame is healthy and the faculties are employed; so long, especially, as
Liberty lends us her wings, and Hope guides us by her star.
I was not sick till long after we passed Margate, and deep was the
pleasure I drank in with the sea-breeze; divine the delight I drew from the
heaving channel-waves, from the sea-birds on their ridges, from the white sails
on their dark distance, from the quiet yet beclouded sky, overhanging all. In my
reverie, methought I saw the continent of Europe, like a wide dream-land, far
away. Sunshine lay on it, making the long coast one line of gold; tiniest
tracery of clustered town and snow-gleaming tower, of woods deep-massed, of
heights serrated, of smooth pasturage and veiny stream, embossed the metal-
bright prospect. For background, spread a sky, solemn and dark-blue, and - grand
with imperial promise, soft with tints of enchantment - strode from north to
south a God-bent bow, an arch of hope.
Cancel the whole of that, if you please, reader - or rather let it stand,
and draw thence a moral - an alliterative, text-hand copy:
Becoming excessively sick, I faltered down into the cabin.
Miss Fanshawe's berth chanced to be next mine; and, I am sorry to say,
she tormented me with an unsparing selfishness during the whole time of our
mutual distress. Nothing could exceed her impatience and fretfulness. The
Watsons, who were very sick too, and on whom the stewardess attended with
shameless partiality, were stoics compared with her. Many a time since have I
noticed, in persons of Ginevra Fanshawe's light, careless temperament, and fair,
fragile style of beauty, an entire incapacity to endure: they seem to sour in
adversity, like small-beer in thunder: the man who takes such a woman for his
wife, ought to be prepared to guarantee her an existence all sunshine. Indignant
at last with her teasing peevishness, I curtly requested her 'to hold her
tongue.' The rebuff did her good, and it was observable that she liked me no
worse for it.
As dark night drew on, the sea roughened: larger waves swayed strong
against the vessel's side. It was strange to reflect that blackness and water
were round us, and to feel the ship ploughing straight on her pathless way,
despite noise, billow and rising gale. Articles of furniture began to fall
about, and it became needful to lash them to their places; the passengers grew
sicker than ever; Miss Fanshawe declared, with groans, that she must die.
'Not just yet, honey', said the stewardess. 'We're just in port.'
Accordingly, in another quarter of an hour, a calm fell upon us all; and about
midnight the voyage ended.
I was sorry: yes, I was sorry. My resting time was past; my difficulties
- my stringent difficulties - recommenced. When I went on deck, the cold air and
black scowl of the night seemed to rebuke me for my presumption in being where I
was: the lights of the foreign sea-port town, glimmering round the foreign
harbour, met me like unnumbered threatening eyes. Friends came on board to
welcome the Watsons; a whole family of friends surrounded and bore away Miss
Fanshawe; I - but I dared not for one moment dwell on a comparison of
positions.
Yet where should I go? I must go somewhere. Necessity dare not be nice.
As I gave the stewardess her fee - and she seemed surprised at receiving a coin
of more value than, from such a quarter, her coarse calculations had probably
reckoned on - I said:
'Be kind enough to direct me to some quiet, respectable inn, where I can
go for the night.'
She not only gave me the required direction, but called a commissionaire,
and bid him take charge of me, and - not my trunk, for that was gone to the
custom-house.
I followed this man along a rudely-paved street, lit now by a fitful
gleam of moonlight; he brought me to the inn. I offered him sixpence, which he
refused to take; supposing it not enough, I changed it for a shilling; but this
also he declined, speaking rather sharply, in a language to me unknown. A
waiter, coming forward into the lamp-lit inn-passage, reminded me, in broken
English, that my money was foreign money, not current here. I gave him a
sovereign to change. This little matter settled, I asked for a bedroom; supper I
could not take; I was still sea-sick and unnerved, and trembling all over. How
deeply glad I was when the door of a very small chamber at length closed on me
and my exhaustion. Again I might rest: though the cloud of doubt would be as
thick to-morrow as ever; the necessity for exertion more urgent, the peril (of
destitution) nearer, the conflict (for existence) more severe.